With the ECU wiring tidied up it was time to connect some stuff up. More crimping, soldering, wrapping and cable tie-ing saw the oil pressure sensors, oil temperature sensor and the coolant temp sensor all connected up and displaying correctly on the dash. I also sorted out the wiring for the adjustable radiator fan switch and its relay, all that’s left there is to connect the fan itself and run the wires to it from the relay.
During the week there was some bad news from Brian, Bob Hall of Concept Racing has been critically injured in an accident. Bob does all the mission critical TIG welding for Brian – the wishbones and all the aluminium welding such as the fuel tank and swirl pot and he was about to do the aluminium tubular frames that are used fore and aft to mount the bodywork. So this is likely to add another delay on top of that already caused by 4 weeks of pretty much continuous freezing temperatures that have prevented progress with the bodywork.
On Christmas Eve I managed to get out to the
deep freeze garage and got a bit more wiring done. Some research had found reference to someone fitting a ZZR1400 engine in a buggy who had bypassed the tipover sensor (or vehicle down sensor as it’s referred to in the workshop manual) with a 68kΩ resistor. This is the same as on the Hayabusa so it’s likely the manufacturers are using the same unit. Basically the ECU supplies 5V and expects to see 4V out. A quick test showed it did indeed achieve this so I soldered that in and insulated it. I also wired in the reverse motor and did a quick test of that, then ran the wires for the fuel pump and fuel level sender. I still need to calibrate the sender but while out on my errands this morning I got 2 jerry cans of unleaded so hopefully can do that over the next few days.
Having been banned from the garage on Christmas Day I managed to sneak out on Boxing Day. First job was completing the reverse wiring. Rather than just supply the reverse motor directly from a switch I decided to wire it via a relay which gave me the ability to link it to the neutral switch so reverse can only be activated when the gearbox is in neutral. I also fitted a couple more switches to the dash, then moved on to the wire in the remaining relays for the headlights and the indicators. I got round to fitting the radiator fan and wired that up to its relay. In addition to the coolant temperature switch controlling this I’m also wiring in a manual switch, this allowed me to test it. I also managed to confirm that a 10 amp fuse isn’t enough for the fan …
On Bank Holiday Monday I managed a couple more hours, this time completing the wiring for the indicator and hazard switches, starter button and the fan switch. The dash wiring was now complete until I actually start connecting wires to lights, indicators etc. It needs a lot of tidying up but I can’t do this until the rest of the wiring is in place.
The next job to tackle is the fuel lines. The plumbing for this is fairly complex. The high pressure pump has a -6 threaded outlet on the tank, this needs to run to the fuel rail, with the fuel filter fitted inline, and the fuel pressure regulator teed off with a return from that to the tank. I was originally going to do these runs with standard rubber fuel hose but on Brian’s advice have got braided hose. By the time you get the hose and all the fittings this significantly escalates the expense but running braided hose within the engine bay makes sense although I guess if you’ve got a fire that is going long enough to burn through the rubber hose the additional protection offered by the braided hose is probably academic! In any case, it’s a one off expense. I haven’t made up braided hoses for a while and after struggling with the first one in my vice soft-jaws I decided to make myself a pair of simple aluminium jaw protectors using some aluminium angle. Once I’d done this the first fitting went together nicely.
Tuesday was again a Bank Holiday so a bit more garage time although I was in work for the afternoon/evening. I made some progress with the fuel hoses but it’s a pretty slow business and making up a bracket for the fuel pressure regulator took a time. Fitting 6 of the Aeroquip anodised fittings while only spearing a finger once is quite an achievement The fittings onto the fuel pump outlet on the tank, the fuel filter and the fuel pressure sender adapter are all threaded -6 but those on the fuel rail, the fuel pressure regulator and the T-piece required are all standard push fit. By the time it was time to go to work the hoses were all pretty much done apart from the tank breather. With a couple more of the pipe clips tightened and the fuel pressure sensor fitted to the inline adapter (see pic below) I’ll be ready to slosh a bit of petrol in the tank and see if there are any leaks. If the fuel pump works of course.
On New Year’s Eve I finished off the fuel lines then fitted and wired in the fuel pressure sensor. With that done I sorted out my temporary filler cap – the trouble here was that the hose is 38mm ID but so is the filler neck so it wouldn’t fit as the hose doesn’t stretch. Half an hour with a block of acetal in the lathe and I turned up a sleeve to fit snugly inside the filler neck. Once that was done I sloshed a bit of fuel in the tank and ran a wire direct from the fuse box to check the pump was working OK. It did but the DigiDash was showing 1psi on the fuel pressure, with a few turns on the screw adjuster on top of the regulator I soon had it at the requisite 44psi.
I was now getting closer to being able to attempt to start the engine. I can’t locate my oil cooler yet so I just fitted a 90° elbow on each end of my oil hose and ran it in a loop out of the take off adapter and back into it again. The engine then received 4 litres of Silkolene 15w50. Next job was to fit hose clamps on the radiator hoses and fill the system with coolant. This went slightly wrong as I forgot about the small outlet on the water pump that on the bike runs to the oil/water intercooler so I turned a little aluminium blank to fit in a short length of hose and clamped that in place.
With the plugs out I turned the engine over to see if I could get any visible oil pressure. This unsurprisingly took ages as it had to pump the oil round the length of hose first, but it eventually got up to 26psi. I then stuck the plugs back in and decided it was time. Having done this several times now I suppose I’m getting a bit cocky and I expected the engine to start on the first attempt. And indeed it did! It was making a terrible racket of course with no exhaust system on but it was great to be able to finally blip the throttle and see the blue flames out of the exhaust ports. So, that’s another huge milestone achieved and I can now get on with sorting out the other odds and ends like calibrating the fuel level sender, fabricating a mount for the clutch slave cylinder and sorting out a gear change linkage.